6. Dynomaster Elite Technique Plate. Dynomaster introduce our newest&best quality elite technique plate, it is very durbale Technique plate and can drop by itself.

        ADVANCED Technology that redefines the standard in cutting and drilling. Diamonds are oriented inside matrix so that every diamond is better able to participate in cutting, drilling, or diamond machining action.          In 1998 UKAM Industrial Superhard Tools, Division of LEL Diamond Tools International, Inc. Developed a solution to this problem. A new breakthrough called “SMART CUT technology” in manufacturing precision diamond tools.  SMART CUT will greatly improve your diamond tool cutting, drilling, grinding, and lapping efficiency SMART CUT™ is an ADVANCED technology that redefines the standard in manufacturing diamond tools. Utilizing this technology a diamond tool manufacturer is capable of orienting diamonds inside matrix so that every diamond is better able to participate in cutting or drilling action. SMART CUT™ open bond design makes sure every diamond is in the right place and at the right time, working where you need it most. You get maximum use of diamond and bond.        This technology makes diamond concentration almost irrelevant. What most  diamond tool  manufacturers used to do, and still do today is  place diamonds inside the metal matrix, with no control over diamond distribution. The problem with this  approach is inconsistent diamond tool performance. Only about 40% of these diamonds are able to participate in diamond machining action. The rest fall out, become dull, or disintegrate before they have a chance of being used. This factor causes the following problems:        One of the main problems faced by diamond tool manufacturers worldwide involves properly orienting and positioning diamonds inside bond matrix. Over the decades there have been numerous attempts to solve the diamond and CBN distribution problem. Unfortunately, none of the attempts have been proven effective.        Current technologies are also inadequate to provide effective control of diamond mesh size (grit size) and concentration of variations on different parts of the same tool. Current technologies also do not allow diamond distribution to be factored in when manufacture a wheel specifically designed for individual material property and structure.        Today 99% diamond tool manufacturers still have no way or technology to evenly control and distribute Diamond or CBN particles inside bond matrix, nor properly position them to maximize their machining efficiency.

        The mechanised reliable of compounds of fibre of glass or of carbon is a difficult task. In definite, the edges of cut have to be soft and that do not affect to the piece that is mechanising , composed of several materials. This requires that the edge of cut was extremely acute and resistant to the abrasive effect of the fibres. They have obtained good results with tools with a coating of polycrystalline diamond.        The plastics reinforced with fibre of carbon and glass (CFRP / GFRP) are fashionable. They are light and have high values of resistance. Compared with the methods of conventional construction, with elements of the bodywork in CFRP / GFRP can save a lot of weight. The Institute of the Car and of Processing of plastics of the University RWTH of Aquisgrán, for example, has developed and manufactured doors done of plastic reinforced with fibre of carbon (CFRP) and steel for his use in a car of competition, and tested successfully in the careers. When substituting the external ironinging of steel by fibre of carbon, obtained a reduction of 23% of the weight of the door (around 3 kilos by door). In the course of the project, also designed and manufactured a hood in fibre of carbon to substitute to the of aluminium. With this looked for a reduction of weight of around 60% (some 5,5 kilos). The resultant light design has to his time a beneficial effect on the broadcasts of CO2. So it is not surprising that the demand of materials like the fibre of carbon is increased quickly and the consumption/sues world-wide will grow from the 2010 (48.000 t) to more than the double in 2015 (estimated around 100.000 t).Materials composed of fibre: abrasive and sensitive to the heat        The production automated of the final outline in pieces of fibre has done a big progress, as it could see in the fair Automatica 2012 in Munich. By the final finishing that achieves , the machining with chip extraction equipment keeps on being the number 1. But where there is demand mainly is in tools of high performance. The difficulties when it tries mechanise (taladrado, threaded, milling) is the high abrasividad of these fibres integrated at the same time that the sensitivity to the heat (and partially also to the humidity) and the adhesion of the material to the tool. And the materials composed of fibre are extremely miscellaneous. In the first place, the fibres differ in the material, the length, the thickness and the steering of the fibre. On the other hand, there is more than 100 types of different matrices in the market: duroplásticos and thermoplastic, that have to be mechanised in cold, and elastomers, that require speeds of high cutting, since with high revolutions the heat by friction in the channel of shaving remains low. To temperatures of mechanised above 120 – 170 °C, the own matrix of fibre would change. The lubrication also is problematic, since in a lot of cases the oil or the emulsion generate the apparition of delaminaciones, that to his time would produce variations of tolerance in the finishing.Solutions of tool with coating of diamond        The compound materials are of by himself different and, therefore, demand a personalised adaptation of the tool regarding the geometry, sustrato and revestimiento and of the parameters of cutting. The Group Komet has assumed the subject of the mechanised of fibres of carbon and of glass. Combining the know-how in technology of tools with the experience in coating of diamond nanocristalino (NCD) of the subsidiary Komet Rhobest GmbH, the technicians Komet have of a value added vital: tools with coating NCD, optimising so much the geometry, sustrato and coating, as well as the parameters of cutting.        A fundamental element of these tools is his coating of diamond nanocristalino, that obtains in with the method of Komet Rhobest. His special characteristic: the particular purity of the layer of diamond and by the tiny size of glass, with a length of roughly between 5 to 15 nanómetros. This gives like result an extremely smooth surface and an adhesion of the layer of excellent diamond, due to the fact that the small glasses penetrate deeply in the basic material and remains fixed. Like this car-generate fine coatings and of high performance, that for the mechanised of fibres of carbon and of glass is of big importance. Because of the little thickness of the coating, the edges remain alive. Therefore, the user can increase the data of cut, reducing the time of cycle, what en última instancia contributes to a greater productivity.Long useful life, even with abrasive diamonds        Since the components CFRP / GRP use preferably by the aerospace industry, as well as the industry of the car, the requirements for the final product are high. The pieces have to be entirely free of rebabas and with perfect surfaces and the smooth edges. The delaminación has to avoid in any case. The tools with this coating can fulfil with these requirements. Because by his high purity and smooth surface, can realizar radios in the edges of inferior cutting to 0,010 mm, generating very little heat in the zone of cutting. The coating with high resistance to the wear allows us a long life of tool. In his application in the industrial production, this means lower costs of tools, reduction of the times of mechanised, costs of lower horse riding, lower time of inactivity of machine and less back work in the piece finished.

        Need to upgrade your space? From loft conversions to double-storey extensions, there are plenty of ways to renovate your home and create a family-friendly and practical living space.Planning Your Project        Think carefully about how you intend to use the space and keep an open mind. If you have hired an architect, they may be able to show you an entirely new way to re-configure your home that you may not have even considered. Contact RIBA to find suitable architects in your area, or ask friends and family for recommendations. Once the scope of the work has been agreed and planning permission has been granted, your project will go out to tender to obtain quotes. Your architect can advise you on this process.        If you already have a good idea of what you want, you could try a design-and-build company. Their own in-house architects will draw up designs and take care of all the planning, building regulations and project management. Before you choose a company to work with, remember to get three quotes and visit some of the firms’ finished projects. This will help you make an informed decision about the best company to hire.Types of Renovations        Loft conversions. A loft conversion is a great way to maximise space in your home. There are three different options to choose from – a mansard conversion, hip-to-gable conversion or dormer conversion. A mansard requires the slope and shape of the roof to be altered, allowing for extra room. A hip-to-gable conversion effectively replaces the sloping roof with a vertical wall (the gable) and filling in the space in between. A dormer projects vertically from the plane of a sloping roof, meaning you keep the sloping roof at the front, but create additional headroom at the back.         Side return extension. A side return extension stretches your home into the alley at the side of your house. This is often relatively small, but in a Victorian terrace, for example, it can totally transform a kitchen space.Rear extension. These extend out from the back of a property and are typically carried out when there is no side return option or on detached properties. They extend to the size of a kitchen and usually include a dining or living space in addition. If you are adjusting the roofline, then you will need planning permission.         Wraparound extension. This is a side return extension combined with a rear extension. It can provide maximum space and dramatically alter the feeling and shape of a home.        Double-storey extension. Two–storey home extensions cost more than other varieties as the building work is over two levels. However, on the plus side, a huge amount of space is opened up, meaning that you could add a bigger or additional living space as well as an extra bedroom. Seeking Planning Permission         Most work will require planning permission. However, Permitted Development (or PD) rights give most houses automatic planning consent for a range of modest alterations, from rear extensions to loft conversions, within a set of parameters.         A single-storey, ground-floor extension could be covered by Permitted Development if, on a detached house, it extends no more than four metres back from the rear wall, and on a semi-detached or terraced house no more than three metres. Side extensions can also fall within the allowance of PD. An important rule to remember here is that they can extend sideways as far as half of the width of the original house again. For most types of loft conversions you can obtain PD right. However, if you are adjusting the roofline, you will need to seek planning permission.         If you live in a semi-detached or terraced house you will need to notify your neighbours and agree on any work regarding the party wall. This is true for both side return extensions and loft conversions. The process is usually coordinated by a party wall surveyor.          Once informed of your renovations, your neighbours have several options. They can agree to the work, they can agree subject to your surveyor drawing up a Schedule of Condition (which surveys the condition of both properties before the work is carried out), or they can agree in principal but request that a legal document, known as the Party Wall Award, be drawn up. If your neighbours disagree with the work you have proposed it could become a long and expensive battle that could put the entire project in jeopardy. Keeping On Budget         Before you go ahead with your renovation, it’s worth speaking to a local estate agent to get a rough valuation of how much they think the renovation will add. Work out a payment system with your contractor beforehand. It’s worth noting that often painting and decorating is not included in the price, so this will need to be added on.         As with all projects, you may run into problems, so it’s worth having a contingency budget put aside. An additional 5-10% of the total project cost is sensible. Prepare for Disruption         Now that everything is in place, work can start. If you are planning to live in the property while the work is carried out, be prepared for lots of dust. Seal up the doors with plastic sheets and pack away treasured items to ensure they don’t get damaged. Most renovations will take several months – even a simple loft conversion is likely to take six weeks. But remember, it will all be worth it in the end!

Care: Terrazzo will sustain scratches and other damage over time, but with more than 30 years of experience, SOLID can help them maintain their original luster for longer. Terrazzo can be brought to a natural polish without the use of floor finish. The grinding process reveals a floor that is 30-percent cement or epoxy and 70-percent aggregate, giving it a characteristic speckled appearance. It is customary for the epoxy or cement to be color tinted as well. If our craftsmen care for your stone, you may never need to undertake an expensive restoration.Restoration: When you do require significant restoration work, SOLID’s craftsmen can help, too. If you thought your stone was ruined, think again. Our highly skilled artisans relish the opportunity to salvage the unsalvageable. They’re up for the challenge, and can customize their services to just about any space. Here’s a look at a few of their preferred techniques:Diamond Honing | Diamond abrasives smooth stone in high-traffic areas.Diamond & Powder Polishing | Super-fine abrasive powders and diamond discs restore high-reflective finishes to worn surfaces.Enhancer | Brings out the beautiful, natural colors in stone surfaces.Impregnators and Sealers | Protects porous stone from permanent stains while allowing it to breathe.Key Benefits:• Prolongs the life and preserves the aesthetics of stone in highly visible public areas• Protects your investment throughout your facility’s life• Produces a long-lasting polished finish• Reduces or eliminates the need for stripping• Densifies, increases hardness and improves wear• NFSI-Certified “high traction” surfaces help prevent slips and falls

   Stone carving is a long, arduous task, the process involves a lot of tools. Each stone carving tools have different functions. Carved in stone when the latter tools are used to remove traces of previous tools. You are using stone shape, size, and hardness will determine what you should choose the stone carving tools. Stone carving tools on the market far more than the tools you need. Try a variety of stone carving tools and carving methods to identify the most suitable for you.Step 1Select a suitable stone types of saws used to cut the excess part of the rock. Comparison of hard stone such as granite and marble usually saw. There are some small hand saw, such as keyhole saw or bow saw can be used such as alabaster, and soft materials such as talc.Step 2Choose a heavy hammer for stone pitching tools. Separation of the stones from the rock. The bigger the stone weight, you need more heavy hammer. Most of the hammer for stone carving is steel, usually weight 2-4 lbs.Step 3Do not forget the time in the preparation of tools to prepare for several types of chisels. A sharp chisel, flat and different sizes. Different functions of each chisel, try to use a variety of chisels, to find the most suitable for your technology and design, but also for the shape and size of the original stone chisel.Step 4Try using different levels of rasp. FILE sometimes referred to as song file. This rasp cutter more. Stone may require more hard rough rasp, soft stone need to be more than fine song file. Step 5When selecting a carbide granite carving kit, which fitted with a chisel, rasp. You may also need power tools such as pneumatic hammer or chisel. Granite is the most hard rock types, need heavy-duty tools.

How to Renovate a HomeStep 1    Know what you're getting into before you buy. Take a good look at the house and read any inspection reports you receive as part of the sale. Find out whether problems with the house are structural or cosmetic. Will you need to move or repair walls, or just paint them? Are the plumbing and electrical systems modern and in good condition?If this is a home where you have been for some time, you may want to hire a home inspector to help look for major problems before you undertake to renovate. It could keep you from having to do a job twice.Step 2    Get organized. Tour your house with a clipboard or notebook and list all the changes you would like to make. Keep all your contacts, ideas, minutes of your meetings and copies of architectural drawings and prices filed together. Always ask for copies of anything, even work schedules, and keep it filed. Even if you don't read all these, it will keep everyone you deal with on their toes.    Make a pencil sketch of your ideas. It need not be architectural quality or to scale. It can also be what you have saved from the internet or collected from magazines. This is for your bases of discussion with your architect and contractor, if you have them. Step 3    Decide how much you are willing to do yourself and what will need the help of a contractor. You'll probably choose to do some of each. There is generally no need to hire a contractor to install a towel rod, but you may prefer not to install your own shingles on a steep, second-story roof. Step 4    Plan your budget. It is likely that buying the house and necessary things to go in it will leave you low on cash for some time after you buy.Step 5    Decide where you will live while you renovate. Will you be able to live in the house, or part of it, while you renovate, or will you need to live elsewhere? Could you camp in the living room while the bedroom still smells of fresh paint and carpet?Step 6    Plan your approach. While some parts of home remodeling and home renovation can happen at any time, some activities depend on other activities to happen first.Identify and address anything that's urgent. Look for immediate safety hazards, such as a broken window. Also look for problems that will cause further damage if not addressed, such as a leaky roof.    Know what depends on other projects.    Tackle major repairs first. It doesn't make a lot of sense to paint a wall you plan to tear down.    Or, start with small projects. If you're planning to do a lot of work yourself and just getting started with home repairs, smaller projects can give you experience and confidence. Small projects can also help you accomplish larger ones or make a space usable until you can do something more involved. Smaller or interim repairs may even be all you can afford at first.    Try to do related projects together. For example, if you have removed carpeting or other flooring, take the opportunity to repair squeaks, water damage, and any other flaws or damage to the sub-floor.Step 7    Do a little at a time. For long projects that encompass the entire house, such as painting or replacing all the doors (or all the doorknobs), see if it makes sense to go one room or area at a time. This approach will also help you to spread your expenses over time.Step 8    Do a major project all at once. If you are without the use of your only bathroom during a remodel, or if you simply want something out of the way, you may wish to undertake a larger project all at once.

    Polycrystalline diamond (PCD) is formed in a large High Temperature-High Pressure (HT-HP) press, as either a diamond wafer on a backing of carbide, or forming a "vein" of diamond within a carbide wafer or rod.    Most wafers are polished to a mirror finish, then cut with an electrical discharge machining (EDM) tool into smaller, workable segments that are then brazed onto the sawblade, reamer, drill, or other tool. Often they are EDM machined and/or ground an additional time to expose the vein of diamond along the cutting edge. These tools are mostly used for the machining of nonmetallic and nonferrous materials.    The grinding operation is combined with EDM for several reasons. For example, according to Modern Machine Shop,the combination allows a higher material removal rate and is therefore more cost effective. Also, the EDM process slightly affects the surface finish. Grinding is used on the affected area to provide a finer final surface. The Beijing Institute of Electro-Machining attributes a finer shaping and surface geometry to the combination of the two processes into one.    The process itself is accomplished by combining the two elements from each individual process into one grinding wheel. The diamond graphite wheel accomplishes the task of grinding, while the graphite ring around the existing wheel serves as the EDM portion. However, since diamond is not a conductive material, the bonding in the PCD work piece must be ample enough to provide the conductivity necessary for the EDG process to work.    Polycrystalline diamond tools are used extensively in automotive and aerospace industries. They are ideal for speed machining (9000 surface feet per minute or higher) in tough and abrasive aluminum alloys, and high-abrasion processes such as carbon-fiber drilling and ceramics. The diamond cutting edges make them last for extended periods before replacement is needed. High volume processes, tight tolerances, and highly abrasive processes are ideal for diamond tooling.

concrete grinding machine    Concrete Portland concrete, the standard ingredient of concrete, can be a closely controlled chemical combination of calcium, silicon, aluminum, iron and small amounts of other ingredients to which gypsum is added within the last grinding method to regulate the setting time of the concrete. Lime and silica make up about 85% of the mass. Typical among the materials utilised in its manufacture are limestone, shells, and chalk or marl combined with shale, clay, slate or blast furnace slag, silica sand, and iron ore.Concrete Production Line    Concrete is utilized much more than another man-made materials in the world. As of 2006, about 7.five cubic kilometers of concrete are produced each year?amore than one cubic meter for each person on Earth. Reinforced concrete is made up of rebar along with other metallic reinforcements, that are eliminated with magnets and recycled somewhere else. The remaining aggregate chunks are sorted by size. Larger chunks may possibly go by way of the crusher again. More compact pieces of concrete are utilized as gravel for new construction projects. Aggregate base gravel is laid down because the lowest layer inside a road, with clean concrete or asphalt positioned over it. concrete grinding machineAsphalt crusher    The expression asphalt is typically applied as an abbreviation for asphalt concrete or asphalt cement, and it is mostly interchangeable with bitumen. CME is a skilled manufacturer of asphalt crusher, asphalt crushing plant, asphalt crushing/recycling method and asphalt mixing crops. If you want to buy asphalt crusher, asphalt crushing plant, asphalt crushing/recycling program and asphalt mixing vegetation, it is possible to get in touch with us.Asphalt is actually a sticky, black and extremely viscous liquid or semi-solid which is existing in many crude petroleums and in some normal deposits from time to time termed asphaltum.Asphalt Crushing Plant Equipment    Asphalt is formed in the action of sulfuric acids upon potassium rich feldspars inside the method called as "alunitization." The sulfuric acids accompany hydrothermal solutions. It can be commonly rich in certain ore metals. These solutions result in large bodies of Asphalt.    Sometimes, Asphalt is mistaken for massive rock forming dolomite or limestone (calcite). An acid test proves the identification. Asphalt does not bubble even when powdered.    The Crushing Approach of Asphalt is quite similar to standard stone crushing processing.    Firstly, we choose the usable materials and transmit them together with the vibrating feeder. Then vibrating feeder pours them into primary Asphalt crusher. Then products of primary Asphalt crusher get crushed by secondary Asphalt crusher.Secondary Asphalt crusher crushes stones into scaled-down size and normally they can get utilised. But more usually the products of secondary Asphalt crusher get screened by vibrating screen and whose can fit the requirement will leave this approach and become the last product and the others will go back to secondary Asphalt crusher or even primary crusher to get crushed.    Finally, Asphalt all become the right products . Tertiary Asphalt crusher is generally employed in special crushing procedure. Tertiary Asphalt crusher will method stones into a lot scaled-down measurement than secondary crusher.We normally choose mobile Asphalt crusher or portable Asphalt crusher is this process. Because it can be actually convenient to use mobile Asphalt crusher or portable Asphalt crusher in this process.asphalt crusherDiamond mining equipment    Ever wonder where treasure could be found in Arkansas Crater of Diamonds State Park is the only diamond-producing site in the globe where the public can search for diamonds. And the policy here is "finder's keepers." The diamonds you find are yours to keep.diamond mining equipment    Visitors search atop a 37 1/2-acre plowed field, the eroded surface of an ancient, gem-bearing volcanic pipe. Prospectors enter the field by way of the Diamond Discovery Center that offers exhibits and an A/V program explaining the three most popular methods of searching for diamonds. The park staff provides free identification and certification of diamonds.The first diamond was found here in 1906 by John Huddleston, the farmer who owned the property at that time. The Crater of Diamonds has changed hands several times over the years and several unsuccessful attempts have been produced at commercial mining. All such ventures are shrouded in mystery, and lawsuits, lack of money and fires are among the reasons suspected for these failures. The mine was operated privately, and later as a tourist attraction, from 1952 to 1972. In 1972, the state of Arkansas purchased the Crater of Diamonds for development as a state park. The park is open throughout the year except for New Year's Day, Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day.    Pets are allowed at all facilities with all the exception of the Diamond Springs Water Park and Kimberlite Cafe, as long as they remain on a leash under the owner's control at all times.    The park features a 37 1/2-acre field of diamond bearing soil plowed periodically when weather allows. These plowings are unscheduled. Historical structures, old mining equipment, washing pavilions, and sun shelters are located on the field. Diamond mining tools are available for rent or buy. Diamonds as well as other minerals are identified at the Diamond Discovery Center.

    If you have even a scrap of stone marble in your home, consider yourself fortunate to be in the presence of one the most beautiful natural stones around. chinese marble is a limenatural stone that has metamorphosed through heat and pressure, and in the process mixed with natural elements to produce the colors and intricate veining that has so many people pining away for it. And who could blame them? If only you didn't have to keep it clean...    There are two very important things to know when wondering how to clean china marble. The first is this: china marble is not granite tile. People often confuse the two, or lump them together, but there are some major differences between china marble and granite tile - mainly, that china marble is much softer than granite tile, so it stains and wears more easily and cannot be treated in the same ways. The second thing to remember is that you must never use vinegar to clean china marble. We often recommend vinegar on our site because it is a natural cleaning product that doesn't harm you or (most of the time) what you're cleaning. In this case, however, the acidic quality of vinegar (as well as many other cleaning products, like bathroom cleaners or those with lemon) will etch - dull - the surface of your china marble. How to clean china marble safely? Take a minimalist approach and go stronger only if you need to.Cleaning Marble Countertops and Floors     For everyday natural marble cleaning, keep it simple. For quick touch-ups, less is definitely more. Use a soft cloth (I recommend a microfiber one) and warm, distilled water to clean natural marble countertops - especially after contact with food - and then use another cloth to dry the surface. china marble is very prone to water spots, so it is a good idea to never let it air dry. For cleaning natural marble floors, dust-mopping with a microfiber mop or soft cloth should be sufficient on a day-to-day basis, or plain hot water if you need to get rid of any marks. Again, remember to avoid vinegar and other acidic cleaners when cleaning natural marble, even if you really, really love the smell of Pine Sol.    When your in-laws are visiting, get out the big(ger) guns for that stone marble. You're going to need more than warm water this time. That's not to say you should go overboard; it is still important to remember that stone marble is delicate. A ph-neutral dishsoap is probably best when you do your deeper stone marble cleaning, but you may also use acetone (for dark stone marble only, to be safe), hydrogen peroxide (for light stone marble), or clear ammonia mixed with water. You can purchase a non-abrasive stone marble cleaner, of course, but shop cautiously. If you're nervous about damage to the china stone, visit a store that sells stone marble and they'll be able to help you out. Whichever product you choose, be sure to rinse thoroughly so there's no residue left, always dry completely, and make sure you don't slip on your slick stone marble floor!    Clean stone marble stains as soon as possible. Just like acidic cleaners, acidic "stuff" in general is bad for your stone marble. This includes wine, orange juice, tomatoes and even soft drinks, so get any spills up right away by blotting them - wiping or rubbing can make the problem worse. If you're left with a stain anyway, use a commercial stone marble stain remover (remember to choose wisely) or make your own. Try making a poultice (a "soft, moist mass" - not just a medical term) out of a fine powder like whiting or baking soda, going for a peanut butter-like consistency. For oil-based stains (cosmetics, grease), use the powder with some water or rubbing alcohol. For water-based ones (coffee, tea), mix the powder with either hydrogen peroxide or acetone. When you have your poultice, wet the stain and apply the mixture. Tape plastic wrap over it and let dry (usually at least 24 hours); the drying process should lift the stain out.    Protect your china marble to save yourself a lot of trouble. Use those coasters you got from Aunt Hilda, even if they're ugly. Be careful not to place anything hot on your china marble countertops, and use ceramic or china stone containers instead of metal to avoid rust stains. If you have china marble in your bathroom, put felt under a tray for your cosmetics, perfumes, hairspray, aftershave, etc. For china marble flooring, place rugs in high-traffic areas and remove your shoes at the door, and use pads under your furniture. Oh, and save the standing, sitting and dancing around like a maniac for your china marble floors - not your countertops.    Make your chinese marble shine. Wondering how to polish chinese marble? Well, you have a lot of options. The safest and easiest way to polish chinese marble is with a chamois (shammy) on a damp surface; the chamois will polish at the same time as it dries. If you want more shine, try a commercial polish and then dry with the chamois. You can also use baking soda and a stick of chalk to polish chinese marble. First wipe your chinese marble with a baking soda mixture (3 Tbsp. soda to 1 qt. water) and let it air-dry (this time it's okay) for a few hours before rinsing it. Next, moisten a fresh cloth and dip it in crushed chalk, wipe your chinese marble, then rinse and dry thoroughly. If you'd rather not crush chalk or launder a bunch of chamois, use a commercial floor polisher or consult a professional.    Consider adding a stone marble sealer and your stone marble may live longer. Not all natural stone necessarily requires a sealer, especially since often it is sealed when it is made and/or installed. Because stone marble is quite porous, however (and because sealer loses its effect over time), it is wise to use a sealer to protect against staining and interior damage. A sealer isn't foolproof, but it resists moisture for a lot longer than a surface that is not sealed; this matters when it comes to spills or mud on the floor - it buys you time, at least. Before applying a stone marble sealer, try to find out if and when sealer was applied and what brand was used. Some sealers need to be re-applied every year or two, others every fifteen to twenty years. If you do apply a stone marble sealer, be sure to use one that is nontoxic and - if you're using it on countertops - safe for food preparation.Cleaning Marble FAQ    What About Scratches on Marble?    Now that you know how to clean chinese marble, you may be wondering how to deal with scratches. If the scratch is slight, you can try fixing it yourself by using a course-grit sandpaper (starting at a 120 and working up to a 320) or 0000 steel wool. If the scratch is deep, however, or if you're uneasy about doing it yourself and possibly damaging your chinese marble (I would be uneasy), consult a professional.    What About Wax on Marble?    Some people use wax on china marble because it can polish as well as protect, but it can also lead to discoloration - especially if your china marble is white. For best results, try other methods first.    What About the "Other" Marbles?    Although natural marble commonly takes the form of countertops and flooring, it can be found in a lot of other places like showers, tubs, headnatural stones, decorative objects, fireplaces,Stone Carving, fountains and benches. And the list goes on. Basically, you already know how to clean natural marble: follow the same guidelines for this stuff as you would for your natural marble countertops and natural marble flooring, keeping in mind that it's best to clean natural marble with a mild approach first.

    A garage floor coating is one of the most economical and aesthetically pleasing ways to enhance a plain gray concrete garage floor. These heavy-duty epoxy-based systems not only upgrade the look of the floor, they also increase resiliency to stains and tire marks and hide minor imperfections. With many colors to choose from for the base coating, which can be further enhanced by decorative quartz or paint chips, garage floor coatings give you a wide array of design options.Want to learn more about turning your garage into an extension of your living area with the application of a garage floor coating? Review the links on this page for an overview of design ideas for your garage floor, how garage floor systems are installed, and maintaining your garage floor system.

HOW TO APPLY A GARAGE FLOOR COATINGPreparing the Garage Floor to Receive the Coating    Before installing any system to your garage floor, it must be clean and free of any debris that may prevent bonding, such as dirt, oil or sealer. Scrub the floor with detergent and a power scrubber. Acid wash with a solution of four parts water to one part acid, then neutralize the surface with a solution of one part ammonia to ten parts water. Work the neutralizer into the surface with a stiff-bristled brush then rinse with a high-powered washer.    Pay special attention to cleaning any cracks that may be in the floor, as they must be dealt with prior to installing your garage floor covering. Small working cracks can be filled with a 100% solids epoxy paste then scraped level with the floor. If the crack is large, overfill it with the epoxy, then grind the epoxy to floor level after it's dry. Stokes recommends using 100% solids epoxy or fast-drying cementitious material to fill in any deteriorated spots or rough areas. For tooled control joints, Stokes suggests applying a thin bead of simple latex caulk to seal the bottom of the joint. This will provide a smooth joint for your garage floor system, resulting in an easy to clean floor. For saw cut or expansion joints, he recommends filling them with a polyurethane caulk.    If you suspect your garage floor has moisture issues that will prevent your new flooring system from bonding, there is a simple test you can do. Cut out a square piece of plastic sheeting, approximately 2 ft. by 2 ft., and tape all edges of the sheeting to your floor. If water collects on the underside of the plastic, you have moisture vapor transmission. A good vapor barrier will need to be put down before the primer coat. Discuss this option with your installer.    A good garage floor system will consist of a primer, a base coat and a top coat. A primer coat is necessary to ensure a good bond. Apply the primer with a roller according to manufacturer's directions and allow to dry. When the surface is dry to the touch, apply the epoxy or urethane base coat. Broadcast the color flakes evenly into the wet base. The flakes can be applied lightly to show the base color or heavily for increased coverage and durability. Blow or sweep off loose flakes. Scrape the floor using a metal floor scraper to ensure no paint chips are sticking up then blow the floor again. Next seal the system with a finish coat. Stokes recommends a two-part aliphatic polyurethane, which he says is preferable to simple epoxy coatings. "They're the Cadillac of systems," said Stokes. "They are UV resistant, so they won't yellow or fade in the sunlight like epoxies do." Allow floor to dry for 48 hours before allowing foot traffic and up to five days for vehicle traffic. Two sealer coats may be required if a full broadcast is applied.    To further customize your garage floor, options include additional slip resistance and framing the floor for a more finished look.For additional slip resistance    Slip resistant aggregates can be added to the finish coat to increase traction and reduce slip-fall issues. The aggregates are available in different sizes, and issues such as climate and the degree of slip resistance desired must be taken into account when choosing the proper additive. In the Southwest, for example, a 40 to 60 grit aggregate is common, while in the Midwest, a 30 grit is the preferred size. Be sure to discuss the options with your contractor and have him or her show you a sample.Framing the floor for a more finished look    The stem walls, those four-inch borders that go around the perimeter of the garage, can be covered with your chosen garage floor system for a cleaner, more finished look. Apply system as you would for any horizontal surface.

What is it?    Another finish option that is very durable and strong that you can use on your concrete floor is epoxy coating. This type of coating is a thermosetting resin that can be used as a decorative flooring option. Available in various colors, epoxy coating is much thicker than just normal paint, and it will bond firmly to the properly prepared surface.How is it used?    Epoxy coating is used for both commercial and residential concrete floors, on any flooring from manufacturing plants, to hospitals, showrooms, basements and garages and much more.    To ensure a successful epoxy floor coating, our TPC professional will need to look over the concrete and ensure it is ready for the epoxy coating. If the concrete is not prepared properly, then the coating will fail to bond to the concrete like it should. There are at least two coats of epoxy that must be applied to guarantee a strong coating that will last years.The first coat acts as a primer, while the second coat is the color coat and the optional final coat is the wear coat that can have anti slip additives mixed into the product before the application. This final coat is the coat that can give your floor a nice shiny look, all the way to a matte finish based off the customers’ expectations.Why choose this product?    Choose epoxy flooring because not only is the cost hard to beat, but it requires very little maintenance, but it is also highly resilient to chemicals, spills and scratches, which makes it great for areas that have a lot of foot traffic or places where heavy machinery will be. Even better, this floor is easy to clean. This flooring is what you need if you want a low maintenance floor that will shine and always look clean which will keep your floor looking fantastic.Benefits· Impervious to almost everything, including: oil, gas, bleach, transmission fluid, cleaners and more· Protects the concrete from moisture from the top down· Offers a wide array of colors to make your floors more appealing· Low Maintenance· Reflects light off the floor, which will help brighten the room· Will last many decades with no cracking or peeling· Makes cleaning the floors very easy· Can make even the ugliest concrete more appealing and professional looking· Due to its thick coating, epoxy coating does an amazing job covering minor imperfections in the concrete· Moisture resistant, which means this floor is great for people who live in an area with snow because it makes for easy cleaning of ice and road salts· Anti-Dusting· Stain Resistant· Can be applied on top of new or old concrete floors

What is curing and why cure a floor? Curing concrete is the process by which newly placed concrete is kept moist so it can keep gaining strength. For industrial flooring this is especially important in terms of increasing surface wearing capability and reducing overall maintenance costs. For the domestic scenario wearing capacity becomes less important and the aesthetic quality of any surface finish becomes increasingly key which can inform the decision of how to cure. Types of polished concrete flooring There are two main types of polished concrete flooring namely diamond ground polished concrete and power trowelled polished concrete. It is important to differentiate between the two types as methods of curing may be informed by the two types.  Diamond ground polished concrete will remove the top surface, expose the aggregates and refine the finish by using ever increasing grades of diamond pads. A chemical densifier is normally added during the polishing process closing the pores, allowing for a better shine and making the surface less permeable. Power trowelled polished concrete floors derive their finish from floating and steel (usually) trowelling the concrete to a fine smooth and dense finish. Trowelled floors will not expose aggregates (although some ‘peppering’ may occur) and the surface will not have an even tone throughout due to the trowelling process. An additional method to the trowelled floor is to lightly diamond polish the surface prior to handover to further refine the finish. Methods of curing There are many ways to prevent moisture from escaping newly laid concrete but for the domestic scenario where visual concrete is concerned my opinion is that there are really only three practical options: Using a spray on curing compound, wet cure under a proprietary wet curing blanket or air cure under controlled conditions. Each method has advantages and disadvantages which this blog aims to explore.

                                                                                   Epoxy Flooring    An Epoxy Flooring system is a tough and colourful coating for commercial, industrial, retail, and residential floors. It is highly resistant to wear and tear, is water resistant and extremely impervious to dirt and oils.    Epoxy flooring can be applied over many different materials however, concrete is the best surface for epoxy floors. Before we install an epoxy floor, we have to make sure the concrete is in good condition and if it isn’t, we will prepare it for you.    If you need extra slip resistance for your floor we can mix in fine glass or fine sand into the final coat. Most installations take 1 to 3 days and you can normally walk on the surface within 24-48 hours and drive on the surface within 3-5 days.                                                        Anti-Slip Epoxy Flooring    The anti-slip flooring is mainly designed for use in a number of industrial and commercial situations where a long lasting, durable, high performance, chemical and abrasive resistant flooring system is required. 

    With chemically stained floors, the consequences of substandard cleaning can be difficult to remedy. Unlike paints and coatings for concrete, which are opaque and can disguise many evils, acid stains are transparent. Any unwanted residue remaining on the floor is likely to show through the newly applied stain.    "If you are negligent in the cleaning process, it can literally change the entire end effect. A substandard cleaning job will really show up once the final sealer or wax is applied," says Sargent.    "Chemical stains also need to penetrate into the concrete surface to react with the lime in the concrete. Any materials that inhibit concrete stain penetration, such as grease and oil, or curing membranes, will prevent the color from taking, says Tom Schmidt of Jagger Scored/Stained Concrete, Plano, Texas, a company specializing in decorative staining of residential and commercial concrete floors.    Curing membranes, which he encounters more on commercial projects than on residential jobs, are especially difficult to remove. "Even after you clean the surface, the curing compound may have migrated down into the pores of the concrete and the stain will react minimally. You may get marks that look like water spots," he says.    Schmidt also warns against acid etching of floors before staining. A lot of people think they need to acid etch the concrete like they do before applying a paint or coating, to get the paint to adhere. But acid washing depletes the lime content, which is what the minerals in the acid stain react with.

    Concrete has become the new flooring material of choice for designers and homeowners across the United States. Concrete floors are popping up in retail stores, trendy restaurants, offices, and homes everywhere. Whether it's acid-stained, painted, overlays, microtoppings, radiant floors, or a unique personal floor, concrete floors offer a range unlike any other material. Concrete flooring, sometimes referred to as cement flooring, no longer has to be gray and boring. Now coloring concrete or applying textures, patterns, saw cuts, etc., can bring new life to this traditional substrate.    One of the major benefits of concrete floors is their affordability compared to other flooring options. Installing a decorative concrete floor can be quite cost-effective, particularly if you already have a concrete slab that’s ready for staining, polishing or application of a coating or overlay. A basic concrete floor will carry a comparable price tag to linoleum, vinyl, ceramic tile or carpet. While a more complex concrete floor design will run you about the same or slightly less than marble, granite, slate, or high-end wood. Furthermore, the lifetime cost of a concrete floor is very low because they require little upkeep and last for years.    A second thing that attracts business and homeowners to concrete flooring is its ease of maintenance. When properly sealed concrete floors can be cleaned with a quick pass of a dust mop. For an occasional deep clean a neutral cleaner and water can be used. The frequency of maintenance is dependent on the amount of traffic the floor receives. Restaurants and businesses with considerable foot traffic may want to use a sacrificial floor wax in addition to a sealer to further protect from abrasion.    Finally, people are drawn to concrete floors because of their wide color palette. Stained concrete is an incredibly popular choice for interior floors because of its warm, earthy tones. Concrete can be so naturally colored that it blends seamlessly with other elements in a room - oftentimes, you don't even realize it's a concrete floor you're standing on! While stains are the most common, other coloring options for concrete flooring includes painting, dying and the application of tinted sealers. Check with a professional decorative concrete installer to find out which is best for your circumstances.Here are some additional benefits of concrete floors according to Barbara Sargent of Kemiko Concrete Floor Stains:    · They enhance the integrity of architect's designs.    · They are easy to change, especially if you sell your home; the next owner can place carpet or wood on top of the concrete slab.    · They are great in regions with a lot of sand or snow.    They are a good alternative to carpet if you have allergies.

    Staining is, by far, the most popular method for enhancing both commercial and residential concrete floors. Concrete stains are highly versatile, allowing you to achieve just about any look imaginable to suit your design tastes and budget. With stains, you have the ability to add subtle hints of color, bolder design accents, and even custom graphics. Stains can be applied to both new or existing concrete floors and work equally well with concrete overlays. What’s more, because concrete stains penetrate deeply into the concrete surface, they produce fade-resistant, permanent color. Unlike with a paint or coating, the color won't flake off or peel away.    Depending on the look you want to achieve for your stained concrete floor, you can choose from acid-based chemical stains or water-based stains. Acid stains penetrate and react chemically with the concrete, creating natural color variations that add character and unique mottling effects, similar to the appearance of marble or granite. However, the color selection is generally limited to subtle earth tones, such as tans, browns, terra cottas, and soft blue-greens.If you want to go beyond the subtle drama and subdued color palette of acid staining, consider using water-based stains, which come in a full spectrum of hues. In many cases, the different colors can be mixed, like water-based paints, to broaden your options.    There are endless decorative effects you can achieve when using acid or water-based stains. Sometimes the best approach is to keep it simple, using just one stain color in a hue that will complement your decor. Or you can be more daring and use multiple stain colors to create custom looks. Although shades of brown and gray are the most popular stain colors for concrete floors, don’t be afraid to try bolder shades, such as blue or black, to add more drama.

By Bill Palmer, Concrete Network Columnist    Image-N-Concrete is attempting to educate Colorado builders and homeowners of the value and beauty of decorative concrete in residential settings. "We are showing homeowners how concrete floors can be as unique and exquisite as the homes they are building," said company owner Lorena Herriot. "We like to focus on smaller projects where there is a desire for a unique personalized design-like putting paw prints on a dog bakery floor, or including a portion of a company logo on the store entry. Our projects have ranged from residential to commercial, interior to exterior. We just completed a fabulous home in Castle Pines, Colo."    The decorative work in this home was on the 4000 square foot main floor of the 10,000 square foot home. The design challenge was to tie the multiple rooms and hallways together to provide continuity yet have unique designs in each room. To create the multiple looks, Herriot and her crews used a variety of techniques including stains, dyes, stencils, and engraving.    Homeowners Paul and Kristen Brown, who are actually concrete contractors, wanted a somewhat traditional tiled look in the larger areas, such as the kitchen and great room but wanted it all to be concrete. Image-N-Concrete differentiated between the two areas by using different stain colors and by varying the engraved tile pattern (. In the kitchen they used a lighter colored golden wheat chemical stain from Kemiko and engraved an 18x30-inch offset tile pattern. In the adjacent great room they got a richer look by using a Scofield dark walnut stain and a diagonal 5x5-foot tile pattern. The two worked beautifully together while still providing room separation.    In the study Herriot decided on the same dark walnut color used in the great room but with a stronger mix to achieve a deeper darker color. The intent was to create a masculine look to blend with the walnut paneled walls. They completed the floors by adding an accurately placed engraved compass in the center of the room.    "The foyer is very impressive with massive iron doors and "Gone with the Wind" spiral staircase," said Herriot. "Our challenge here was to make the floor equally as elegant." She accomplished that by incorporating aspects of the surrounding environment into the floor design--taking the design from the iron doors and engraving the pattern in circular form in the center of the foyer then dyeing the engraved portions black to resemble the iron work.    In the parlor, which is viewed directly from the foyer, Herriot used a combination of two different stain colors, golden wheat and dark walnut, and engraved 30-inch intersecting circles. "By engraving the intersecting circles first, staining the entire floor the light color, sealing the areas that were to remain light, then re-staining with the dark walnut, we were able to give the floor and the room an expensive look usually achieved by marble flooring," she said.    The dining room became the gem of the home. Here Herriot used the combination of stains, dyes, stencils, and engraving to create a 10x14-foot "rug" directly in the concrete. The process started with staining the entire floor with a golden wheat stain. She then applied and dyed the appropriate areas with a combination of black, dark chocolate, bark brown and amber from Smith Paint Products. The next step was to cut the border lines and seal the interior of the rug with a Brickform sealer then to again stain the area outside the border with golden wheat for a darker color but one that would still blend. The 12-inch border was the last area to be stained, using dark walnut then engraving the border pattern. "The result is a gorgeous, one of a kind conversation piece," Herriot said.    Using the same two base colors throughout the house allowed Image-N-Concrete to maintain a cohesive flow. With all the different rooms and designs, a border design used throughout the hallways and between the rooms helped to pull everything together. In areas with light floors the borders were dark and on the dark floors the borders were light. In the end, all the rooms and hallways flowed together.    Being concrete contractors, the Browns went all out with concrete on the exterior of the home as well. Their expansive patio was stamped as it was poured with a stone texture and on the driveway they went for a stunning wood plank look.

Why do people choose stained concrete?    Stained concrete appeals to many people who want to achieve unique decorative effects for a reasonable cost. For as little as $2 per square foot, you can use stains to create an infinite array of colors and special effects on both interior and exterior surfaces. Concrete stain does more than simply add color. Rather than produce a solid, opaque effect like paint or colored coatings, stains permeate the concrete to infuse it with rich, deep, translucent tones. Some stain manufacturers use adjectives such as "antiqued," "variegated," or "mottled" to describe the distinctive look. Even when treated with the same staining product in the same shade, no two concrete floors, walls, or countertops will look alike due to factors such as the composition and age of the concrete and surface porosity.Can I stain concrete myself?    When applying stain, using the proper tools and application techniques is vital to achieving good results. Once the stain is down, the color is permanent—there's no going back. If you have any doubts, hire the services of a professional, especially if you want to incorporate multiple colors and elaborate decorative effects.Another factor to consider is safety. When working with acid-based chemical stains, it’s important to take the proper precautionary measures because they often contain corrosive components that can cause eye and skin irritation and produce strong odors.Can all concrete be stained?    Both acid and water-based stains can be applied to new or old and plain or integrally colored concrete. They can also be used both indoors and out, on everything from concrete floors and kitchen countertops to pool decks and driveways.The most important consideration is the condition of the surface. If the concrete is covered by grime, glues, coatings, curing membranes, or sealers that inhibit the stain from soaking in, the stain won't be able to penetrate and achieve full color development.What are my color options with stained concrete?    Your color options will vary depending on whether you are using an acid or water-based stain. With acid stains, your color choices will be limited. Most manufacturers offer only eight hues, mostly subtle earth tones, such as tans, browns, terra cottas, and soft blue-greens. Although the basic color palette is sparse, you can mix two or more stain colors before application to achieve a different shade or apply one color over another. You can also produce deeper color effects with a stain by applying two coats.    If you want to go beyond the subtle drama and subdued color palette of acid staining, water-based acrylic stains will give you a wider spectrum of hues to choose from. Most manufacturers offer dozens of standard colors, including black and white and even metallic tints. And in many cases, the different colors can be mixed, like water-based paints, to broaden your options.

      By Bill Palmer and Dan Dorfmueller, Patterned Concrete of Cincinnati      In the bad old days, concrete floors were specified without knowing how to actually measure what was being specified. The old flatness requirements of ¼ inch in 10 feet, for example, left so much up to interpretation that it was basically useless. Anyone could measure almost any floor and pass it or fail it depending on how the measurement was applied and what they wanted to happen. Can't you just see a poorly trained testing technician with an old warped 10-foot long 2x4 bending down with a ruler to measure the gap between the straightedge and the floor? Then saying, this floor is no good! But, today we have F-numbers for flatness and levelness and ACI 302.1R, Guide for Concrete Floor and Slab Construction, that tells us when and how to apply the F number specifications.      Concrete floors, whether used in a residential basement, a big-box store or a manufacturing plant, are basically the same (learn about these popular applications: polished concrete, stained concrete and epoxy coatings). In commercial or industrial settings, though, the slabs usually have special requirements based on the loads or flatness or levelness required. To get a slab that meets these requirements, the contractor will use special techniques in placing and finishing the concrete. Commercial or industrial floors can also have special requirements for surface hardness, finish, and even color. Wal-Mart, for example, has a specification for their exposed concrete floors that incorporates color, surface densifiers, and a hard troweled finish. That company has high expectations for everything and their concrete floors are no exception.      Commercial / Industrial (C/I) floors can be built on grade or can be suspended. Suspended floors are often built on metal decking, which is corrugated sheet metal supported by structural steel. Achieving high flatness and levelness values on these floors can be difficult since the decks and frames deflect under the weight of the concrete.

By Bob Harris, The Decorative Concrete Institute, Temple, Ga.    As a polished concrete consultant, I have been involved recently in several preconstruction meetings for a large retail store chain. These meetings have proven to be very productive and an important step toward improving the quality of the retailer's floors, not to mention being a valuable learning experience.    These clients chose polished concrete for a good portion of their interior floors for a variety of reasons, including aesthetics, ease of maintenance, and light reflectivity. Upon visiting some of their earlier polished floors, we noticed a few problems that ultimately had nothing to do with the quality of the work done by the polishing subcontractor, but instead resulted from the work of the placing and finishing contractor. When polished concrete started becoming popular, specifications were being written inappropriately, setting up the polishing contractor for failure. One specification we came across in particular called for a light salt-and-pepper finish (exposing the sands with no coarse-aggregate exposure), but made no reference to floor flatness(FF) or floor levelness (FL) tolerances. As a result, some of these floors exhibited unlevel, wavy surfaces with raised sections that made it nearly impossible to expose only the sands. These areas showed patches of coarse-aggregate exposure, which the owners did not want. The remedy for this problem was to install the concrete within specified tolerances. In addition, specifying lower-shrinkage concrete materials, combined with tighter joint spacing, would significantly reduce the amount curling the concrete would exhibit.    Witnessing these recurring problems, it became apparent that we needed to revisit the entire concrete placement process, starting with how the subgrade was prepared all the way through to the curing of the slab and, ultimately, the polishing. After attending several of these preconstruction brainstorming sessions, it really got me thinking about the crucial roles each of the different trades play during the concrete construction process (see Checklist of Responsibilities on a Commercial Polishing Project). Everyone involved on a polishing project should be sharing the same common goal, which is to create a durable, architecturally pleasing floor. What's more, these floors have to be reproducible on a consistent basis from one region to the next. Of course, this is a daunting task considering some of the jobsite variables involved.    During these prepour gatherings, which were chaired by Pat Harrison of Structural Services Inc. (SSI), the main goal was to discuss how to improve the quality of these high-end floors and define each subcontractor's responsibilities. In addition to polishing, the topics included concrete pour schedules, mix designs, subgrade preparation, steel reinforcing, vapor barriers, admixtures, concrete plant information, concrete testing, placing and finishing techniques, and joint sawcutting and filling. As you can see, there's a lot more to a successful polishing project than simply passing a grinding machine back and forth across the concrete. Each trade needs to contribute their specific knowledge and skills and be held accountable for their scope of work.

    From September 18 to 20, 2016 the MIA+BSI hosted a fall study tour in Vermont in conjunction with their newly formed New England Chapter. The 80-plus tour group visited eight different locations around the Vermont area, which has been known for its rich stone heritage. The three-day excursion not only provided a valuable learning experiencing, but it also offered sufficient time for networking and sharing ideas among stone industry professionals.    “We afford stone professionals the opportunity to get out of their own office/facility and travel to a destination for learning that cannot be duplicated in a classroom,” explained Jim Hieb, CEO of MIA+BSI. “There is something special about touring facilities and especially quarries. The quarry is what connects us to the product we sell. Whether you are a fabricator, installer or restoration professional — or you are the salesperson who sells it— there is a fascination with the origin of the product which is Mother Earth. The host companies also do a great job of showing off the best in the industry.    “The study tours are crafted in such a way where there is ample time to connect with other stone professionals,” Hieb went on to say. “Whether it is at the opening dinner, the bus time between stops or sharing a drink after a long day of touring, you can dive into the success and challenges that your attending peers are facing in their own business.”    The first stop on the trip was to the Vermont Granite Museum for a cocktail reception and dinner. The museum, located in Barre, VT, has a mission goal to preserve, honor and showcase Vermont’s granite industry and heritage. Members of the study tour were able to learn about the history of granite in Vermont, talk to sculptors and other members of the museum and to network with each other, learning about their businesses.    To start off the second day, the group went to the Bethel White quarry, operated by Rock of Ages, located in Granitesville, VT. The Bethel White quarry dates back to the 1800s and was among the first commercially operated quarries in the U.S., and material from the site was used for a range of historic buildings and national landmarks. The group was greeted by Bob Campo, vice president of quarry sales for Rock of Ages. In the past year and a half, Rock of Ages has expanded the quarry and has invested $5 million dollars into it. Campo also explained the quarrying process and the benefits of the stone. “We are in the process of working on a project in Paris,” said Campo. “It’s actually replacing Carrara marble that was used. Bethel White is a clean stone with very little veining.” The group was able to ask Campo about the quarry, how they extract blocks from the quarry, the use of wire saws and other topics they wished to know more about.    The second stop of the day was to Vermont Quarries, located in Mendon, VT. Owned by R.E.D. Graniti and Mazzuchelli Marmi of Carrara, Italy, the company has the largest underground marble quarry in the world. Danby marble has been used for a variety of buildings and national monuments, such as the Arlington National Amphitheatre, the Supreme Court and the Thomas Jefferson memorial. The group was met by Todd Robertson, the North American sales director, who showed them the Danby quarry. “The quarry works in different layers,” said Robertson. “If we start from the top, we would get Imperial, then next Olympian and it keeps changing as we go down.” Vermont Quarries also gave the group a live demonstration of how they remove the block that has been recently cut from the mountain wall.    After lunch the group stopped by Camara Slate Quarry and Yard, located in Fair Haven, VT. The quarries have been mined since the mid-1850s and the tour group was shown around by Shawn Camara. The group saw the mining location and how it’s processed. “You have a time frame of about four to six weeks to split slate,” said Camara. “After you split it after that time, all the moisture leaves the stone and you cannot split it again. Because of this, we have 90% waste with our product and only 10% yield.” The group walked through the slate processing mill and then through the roofing slate yard and shop.    The final stop of the day was to the Vermont Verde Antique quarry, located in Rochester, VT. Vermont Verde Antique is a dark green serpentine stone quarried in the Green Mountains of Vermont. John Fabbioli showed the group the 200-foot-deep pit where the stone is quarried. He also explained the future of the quarry. “We are currently making a new quarry floor,” said Fabbioli. “Then we are going to expand the quarry length wise. Our goal is to make it possible to drive down into the quarry.” The Vermont Verde Antique quarry not only quarries the stone, but they cut and sell the slabs themselves.    The last day of the tour started at Trow & Holden located in Barre, VT. From forging and forming to heat treatment and finish grinding, Trow & Holden has been making all its tools at its Barre, VT, location, for more than 120 years. The group was able to watch demonstrations of how the tools work and their abilities. Also, they were able to purchase any tools they wanted from the shop.    After visiting Trow & Holden, the group was divided, with one going to Buttura & Gherardi Granite Artisans and the other going to Hope Cemetery. Hope Cemetery, located in Barre, VT, was established in 1895 and originally contained 53 acres. Since then it has expanded to 65 acres. Visitors from all around the world come to see the cemetery and see the Barre Gray granite that is used for monuments and mausoleums.    The next stop was Buttura & Gherardi Granite Artisans, located in Barre, VT. The group was met by company President Mark Gherardi. The Buttura and Gherardi families immigrated to America from regions surrounding Carrara and Verona, Italy, in the early 1900s — each starting their own granite manufacturing businesses. Today, the two companies have merged to provide the finest quality memorial art. Gherardi walked the group around to show how the stones were polished and cut. They also walked through the studio sections where sculptors hand carved stone designs.    The final stop of the trip was to the E.L. Smith quarry owned and operated by Rock of Ages. The group was first brought up to take in the view from above the quarry and see the 600-foot-deep quarry that produces Barre granite. The group learned about the history of the quarry, as well as how it currently and used to operate. The group was then led through the company’s monument processing plant, to see how the monuments were cut and then assembled.    When the group was finished, they were brought back to the hotel where the Women in Stone (WIS) held a reception that allowed all the guests of the event to talk about what they had seen and experienced.    “We’ve been doing these tours for several years, and I must say that this one was probably the best orchestrated we have ever done,” said Hieb. “Some of that comes from experience, but some of it also comes from the collaboration between the MIA and the BSI. The combination of great industry volunteers and an excellent staff is key. The attendees — and their eagerness and excitement about the event — makes these events wonderful and a must-attend at some point in your professional career.    “In September 2017, we will be traveling to Indiana to showcase the limestone industry, rich history in the stone industry and more great networking opportunities,” Hieb continued. “It is also likely that an international delegation of stone professionals will be attending the event, which will certainly add to the flavor of the event and enhance the networking opportunities.”   By Jason Kamery from www.stoneworld.com

    Homeowners, retailers, big-box stores, educational and medical facilities are choosing polished concrete for their floor finish because of the competitive advantage polished flooring offers over other types of floor coverings. Decorative concrete in the form of polished floors has become the logical choice because of the great value it delivers, and because it can compete aesthetically as well.Residential Polished Floor Benefits:· Cost savings: Traditional floor covering materials are not necessary when the slab on grade is used as the finished floor surface· Longer life-cycle savings: Polished floors are not as vulnerable to damage as other materials and do not need replacing· Easy to clean: Won't harbor dust, dirt, allergens· Available in wide variety of colors and designs    Commercial and Retail Polished Floor Benefits:· Cost savings: Using the slab on grade as the finished floor surface is more cost effective, maintenance costs are lower· More resistant to high foot traffic. A grocer in Tennessee explains that he is able to maintain primarily just the traffic ways within his store, which saves time and money because he does not have to move large display cases to wax and strip the floor.· Less maintenance and longer service life: Polished floors are easy to clean, requiring only occasional damp mopping. They also eliminate the need for messy waxes or coatings as well as the associated labor, time, and expense to apply them. The glossy surface of polished concrete resists the marks of forklift truck tires and staining from oil and chemical spills.· Resistant to moisture transmission issues: Polished concrete allows the floor to breathe and eliminates issues that arise with other flooring materials that seal off the concrete, such as tile, etc.

· Cost Savings: Traditional floor covering material cost more and have more maintenance costs associated with up-keep.· Less Maintenance: Polished floors are easy to clean, requiring only occasional mopping with soap and water. They eliminate the need for any coatings such as wax or sealants. Polished concrete is very resistant to marks, scratches, and stains from chemicals spills.· Resistant to moisture: Polished concrete allows the floor to breathe and eliminates issues that arise with other flooring material that seal off the concrete, such as tile. In addition, polished concrete reduces dust mite and allergen problems, and does not support mold growth.· High light reflectivity: Saves energy costs by reducing the artificial lighting requirements. Important for public places like office buildings, hotels, restaurants, and other public facilities that want to project a bright, clean, professional and safe appearance.· Safe and Permanent: Polished concrete does not require hazardous coatings, cleaners or adhesives. It’s long life expectancy makes it an ideal choice.· Versatility: Polished concrete is popular in commercial buildings because of limitless design options and it’s versatility. It is easy to maintain, has a long life expectancy, and is very affordable solution for your floors. Some common examples include: Large warehouses and warehouse outlets •Retail shops •Hotels and restaurant •Grocery stores •Office buildings •Automobile showrooms •Private residences •Industrial buildings •Big-box stores

PREPARING A CONCRETE SLAB      The most difficult aspect of satisfactorily coating a concrete floor is preparing the floor to ensure that the coating system will adhere. The following tests should be performed to determine the extent of surface preparation required to insure a successful coating application.      Test for Curing Compound: Most concrete had a chemical curing agent applied at the time the concrete was poured. Such chemical curing agents frequently prevent adhesion of coatings. Test for curing compound by applying a muriatic acid solution to bare concrete. If the solution does not react, (bubble vigourously) when in contact with the concrete, the presence of a curing compound is indicated. Check various areas of the floor. Curing compounds must be either chemically or mechanically removed prior to coating. Generally, acid etching does not remove chemical curing compoundsTest for Grease: The presence of oil or grease will interfere with coating adhesion. Dark and discolored areas often indicate that grease and/or oil has contaminated the floor. Test for contamination by pouring a small amount of water on the floor. If it beads up, oil and/or grease is present. Another test which can indicate the presence of oil or grease is to press a strip of duct tape firmly onto the surface. If the duct tape does not strongly adhere to the surface, oil and/or grease may be indicated. If grease or oil is present, the floor must be degreased before further surface preparation is performed.      Test for Moisture: There may be moisture in the concrete or moisture vapor may be seeping up through it. Test for moisture by taping a 2’x 2' plastic sheet over different areas of the floor. Examine the plastic after 24 hours for signs of moisture. If moisture is present the floor should not be coated until the source of the moisture is determined. Hydrostatic Pressure occurs when a body of water, restricted by any structure, is prevented from flowing along its normal path. The pressure created by this build of water exerts unpredictable amounts of pressure on the concrete itself and any coating that may be attached. This force has the capability of causing failure in a concrete foundation hence a failure in any coating system applied where hydrostatic pressure exists. Because the effects of hydrostatic pressure can not be predicted, there exists no guarantee by Diamond Vogel that any coating will be able to withstand the forces capable of causing failure in the concrete substrate.      Test Adhesion of Previous Coatings: Some coating systems do not require the complete removal of previously applied coatings in order to repaint the floor but all existing coating that remains that is painted over must be tightly adherent. After required mechanical and chemical cleaning of the surface is accomplished, cut 2" x 2" “X” cross- hatches into remaining coatings. Then apply 6" stripes of duct tape over the “X’s” and press the duct tape firmly onto the floor and then quickly pull it off. If large portions of the prior coating come off with the tape additional surface preparation must be done before recoating. The applicator of the coating is responsible for determining whether the floor will hold a coating or not.      Abrasive blast cleaning may be necessary to completely remove all existing coatings and to provide a new surface profile. Some floors may be impregnated with oils, solvents, or water to such a degree that coating adhesion will be impossible even with abrasive blasting. If the floor has been heavily soiled in the past it is recommended that a core sample of the concrete be taken to determine the level of contamination. If the core sample indicates contamination into the concrete that can not be removed by abrasive blasting the floor will probably never allow a coating to adhere.DEGREASING A CONCRETE FLOOR      Dampen the concrete surface and then apply a 1:1 solution of Great Lakes Laboratories’ Extra Muscle and water. Allow to soak for 15 to 20 minutes. Keep the surface wet by adding water while scrubbing the solution over the entire floor with an electric floor scrubber or stiff bristle brush. Rinse floor thoroughly using a power washer with a minimum 1000 psi and a minimum fluid flow of 1 gpm. Final rinse water should be neutral-pH 7. Allow to dry. The color and dullness of the floor should be uniform. Dark areas indicate the presence of grease/oil and the floor must be de-greased again. Check for invisible grease/oil in several areas of the floor by applying a 1:1 solution of muriatic acid to the floor. If the acid turns brown or does not react (bubble), grease/oil has penetrated the floor and a repeat de-greasing procedure is necessary. Repeat the acid test after subsequent de-greasing until all areas tested indicate the floor to be free of grease and oil. After repeat de-greasing, rinse the floor by power washing to a neutral pH. Duct tape should adhere tightly to a properly de-greased floor. If the tape does not tightly adhere, the presence of grease is indicated and further degreasing is necessary.PREPARING A CONCRETE FLOOR BY ACID ETCHING      Sweep the floor clean and dispose of dust. Remove from the floor any contaminant, including oil and grease. Dampen the floor and apply a 1:1 solution of muriatic acid and water through a sprinkling device. The acid should bubble vigorously when applied to the concrete. Coverage should be about 1 gallon of solution per 100 square feet. Allow reaction between solution and concrete to occur for approximately 3-5 minutes, then follow with a stiff broom or mechanical scrubber to remove surface laitance. Rinse the etched surface with clean water, preferably with a high pressure washer. If use of a pressure washer is not possible, rinse and remove water a minimum of three times to ensure a complete rinse is obtained. Do not let the acid dry out on the floor. Continue power scrubbing while rinsing with clean potable water.       Household ammonia or soda ash may be added in the rinse to help neutralize the acid. Pick up the water. Litmus paper should be used to check the pH of the rinse water. If the rinse water is not pH neutral (pH 7-8) or if there appears to be a film on the floor, additional rinsing is necessary. Allow the surface to completely dry then vacuum again to remove fine particles loosened by the acid-etch. Do not allow un-neutralized acid solution to flow into the sewer system or ground.PREPARING A CONCRETE FLOOR BY SHOT BLASTING      Sweep the floor clean and dispose of dust. Remove from the floor any contaminant including oil and grease. Shot blast to produce a 3 - 4 mil profile on the concrete floor. The shot blasting machine must be equipped with a vacuum system to recover shot and to reduce airborne dust and contaminants. After blasting sweep the floor to remove any shot, dust and loose contaminants. Areas that cannot be reached with the blasting machine must be mechanically abraded by hand held devices to remove curing compound and produce a minimum 3-4 mil profile.

Polished concrete is fast becoming the ultimate no-wax flooring material. Thanks to recent advances in polishing equipment and techniques, contractors are now grinding concrete floor surfaces, whether new or old, to a high-gloss finish that never needs waxes or coatings. Factor in the superior durability and performance of concrete, and it's no wonder why more retail, warehouse, and office facilities are opting for polished concrete flooring as an alternative to marble, granite, tile, linoleum, or coated concrete. Even homeowners are catching on to the appeal of these smooth, high-luster floors, which can be stained to replicate the look of polished stone.Because polishing is a multistep process, you can choose the level of sheen -- from satin to high-gloss -- that meets your maintenance and aesthetic requirements. This versatility makes polished concrete an ideal flooring material for a variety of applications.This section offers a complete overview of polished concrete floors, including benefits, design options, equipment requirements and maintenance needs.You'll learn the basic steps in the polishing process, the differences between wet and dry polishing, and the advantages of polished concrete compared with other flooring materials including carpeting, wood, ceramic tile, natural stone, and vinyl tile. You'll also find the average costs of polished concrete and what factors affect the final price of installing polished concrete floors.You'll learn how to prepare concrete surfaces before polishing to ensure good results, as well as why some concrete floors may not be good candidates for polishing. Also discover the difference between the various levels of shine possible with polished concrete, ranging from low gloss to reflective mirror-like finishes.Plus get popular design options for polished concrete, including coloring with stains and dyes, decorative engraving, and stenciled graphics. Find ideas for achieving interesting decorative effects by applying multiple colors of dye and using faux-finishing techniques.Finally, you'll find instructions for cleaning and maintaining polished concrete, how to improve the slip-resistance of polished concrete floors and the environmentally friendly attributes of polished concrete.Be aware that the process of polishing concrete floors requires a great deal of expertise and the use of specialized heavy-duty polishing machines equipped with diamond-impregnated disks that gradually grind down surfaces to the desired degree of shine and smoothness. Considering the investment in equipment and the skill required, it's definitely not a project for the do-it-yourselfer. You'll want to hire a professional concrete polishing contractor to do the work.Factor in the superior durability and performance of concrete, and it's no wonder why more retail, warehouse, and office facilities are opting for polished concrete flooring as an alternative to marble, granite, tile, linoleum, or coated concrete. Even homeowners are catching on to the appeal of these smooth, high-luster floors, which can be stained to replicate the look of polished stone.

By Steve VandeWater, ArtistiCrete LLCApplying the stencilsAfter crews place the concrete, they screed, float and edge the slab in the usual manner and then place the stencils on the surface while the concrete is still wet but free of excessive bleed water. Placement requires two people, with one person holding the stencil roll while the other person holds the uncoiled end on the opposite side of the slab. Once the stencil is laid down atop the slab, it's plastered to the surface with a special stencil roller.The stencil is placed and worked one strip at a time. Because the stencils are die cut, the strips must be aligned in a specific manner to ensure pattern continuity, similar to aligning strips of patterned wallpaper. After the entire slab is covered, workers use a pair of scissors to trim the stencil to about 1/8 inch inside the form boards (this allows for the stencil to swell a bit). A hand float is then used to stick down the edges.Applying stencils to existing concrete - sandblasting or acid etching?These two popular techniques for stenciling hardened concrete involve removing a very thin surface layer of concrete, leaving the areas masked by the stencil intact to create a raised, three-dimensional pattern. In the case of sandblasting, you adhere the stencil to the concrete, then go over the area with a sandblaster, keeping the nozzle at least 12 inches above the surface. With etching, you brush-apply a gelled acid over the exposed areas not covered by the stencil, using a product that's thick enough so it won't bleed underneath.Both techniques, especially sandblasting, can be tough on the stencil itself, so the material needs to be durable enough to stand up to the process. You'll also need to use a stencil with an adhesive backing that prevents movement. Be sure to ask the manufacturer if its stencil products are suitable for these applications. Brickform Rafco Products, for example, makes self-adhesive vinyl stencils designed to withstand sandblasting and light shotblasting. They are available in many stock patterns as well as custom designs.

CONCRETE STENCILING PROCESSStenciling OptionsThe most popular techniques for stenciling existing concrete floors include:· Applying color with chemical stains or water- or solvent-based dyes, either before or after the stencil is removed· Creating an embossed pattern by troweling or spraying a thin concrete overlay or skim coating over the stencil.· Etching designs into the concrete by lightly sandblasting or using a gelled acid that won’t seep beneath the stencilsWith all these techniques, you’ll usually achieve better results by using a stencil with an adhesive backing that prevents movement. For more information about using adhesive-backed stencils to enhance concrete floors,.Using Stencils with an OverlaySpray-down systemsSpray-down overlays work great with paper or plastic stencils, permitting the creation of intricate borders, custom designs, and logos. You can even make your own stencils by simply cutting Masonite or thin plywood with a jigsaw into a design. Whatever stencil material you use, make sure it’s thick enough that it won’t tear during removal.Apply the stencil to a base layer of the overlay material, then spray apply the texture coat in a contrasting color. If you plan to apply stain accents to the overlay, it’s often easier to do the staining before removing the stencil so the color underneath is not affected. When spraying the topping over the stencil, it’s important to spray straight down to help prevent stencil movement and to keep any overspray from bleeding underneath the stencil and blurring the pattern lines.Trowel-down microtopping systemsBecause microtoppings are applied so thinly, they are ideal for use with adhesive-backed stencils to create decorative floor borders and other designs. After surface preparation has been completed, the base coat is troweled or squeegeed down to the width of the stencil. The stencil is then adhered to the tacky base coat. Repeat this process until the entire stencil is laid. You can then trowel a thin topcoat over the stencil (approximately 1/8 inch). When creating stenciled borders, a small paint roller is a great way to apply a microtopping because it provides complete coverage without dislodging the stencil.

No type of flooring material is truly maintenance free, and the same holds true for decorative concrete. While concrete floors are relatively easy to care for when compared with other types of flooring (especially carpet), they do require regular attention. How much maintenance your floor will need largely depends on the amount of traffic it receives. The maintenance needs of a residential floor will be much different than those for a floor in a high-traffic commercial or retail environment.In most cases, residential concrete floors experience light foot traffic, and a simple cleaning regimen of occasional sweeping and damp mopping will keep them looking like new for many years. Protecting concrete floors with a good film-forming sealer and a coat of floor finish or wax will make them even more resistant to stains, chemicals and abrasion.General Maintenance TipsHere are some tips to make your concrete floors as easy to maintain as possible:· Avoid floor designs with sawcut patterns, since the narrow cuts in the surface can trap dirt.· Unless the floor is polished, always keep it protected with a good floor sealer. This top layer of protection not only prolongs the life of your floor, it can also enhance its appearance· For further protection against stains, dirt and abrasion, apply a good commercial-grade floor wax designed for concrete floors. This sacrificial finish will help to preserve the sealer and is easy to reapply if it begins to wear· In areas of heavy traffic, such as entrances and foyers, reduce maintenance and wear and tear by using floor mats, both inside and outside of the entryways.· Concrete floors are a good choice for pet owners because they won’t trap pet dander and allow easy cleanup of muddy paws and pet accidents. Just give the floor a few swipes with a broom, towel or mop, and the mess is history· Follow the maintenance schedule recommended by your concrete contractor to keep your floor looking its best.· Only use cleaning solutions recommended by your contractor or the manufacturer of the floor sealer or finishing wax. Avoid harsh cleaning products.

By Chris Sullivan, Vice President of Sales and Marketing for ChemSystems Inc.Textured Concrete Floor CoveringsAlso known as stampable overlays, are designed for one purpose, and one purpose only – to provide a textured surface similar to stone, tile, brick, wood, or other natural material. These stampable overlay systems typically range in thickness from ¼ inch to 5/8 inch. The common thickness is 3/8 inch, which is usually thick enough to accommodate most standard imprinting tools in the market place. Stampable overlay systems are designed to be applied with a gauge rake, quick trowel smoothed, and then imprinted with the desired texture or stamp tool. Either a powder or liquid release material can be used, depending on the final look and/or color scheme that is desired. These materials cure in 24 hours, and can usually be sealed and light traffic allowed within 36 hours after application. The single most important factor with any stampable overlay application is surface preparation. The surface needs to have sufficient profile (be rough enough) so that the overlay material can bond both chemically and mechanically. I always recommend a mechanical grinding or profiling of the floor, as this will always provide better profile versus an acid etch or other means of chemical surface profiling. If you are looking for a 3-dimensional textured floor covering that resembles most any natural material (stone, tile, wood, etc.) consider a stampable overlay on your next project.Thin Section / MicrotoppingsAre thinner versions of their cousins the stampable overlay. They utilize "beefed up" polymers that allow the material to go down very thin and yet maintain strength, durability and abrasion resistance. They range in thickness from 1/32 inch up to 1/8 inch thick. They are easily applied with trowels, squeegees, brushes, and or rollers, all depending on the final look that is desired. Most microtopping systems offer a base coat, which contains sand, and is used in the first two applications. Some systems offer a finish coat, which contains no sand, and is used only when an ultra smooth top or final surface is specified. Because these materials are so thin and dry very quickly, texture is limited to how the products are applied. Some typical finishes for Microtopping floor coverings include, but are not limited to smooth trowel, rough trowel, stippled, and orange peel. Like stampable overlays, these systems cure in 24 hours, and are usually ready for foot traffic within 36 hours of application. Another common microtopping finish involves coming back 24 hours after application and applying concrete stains or dyes to create a stained concrete appearance. This is a very popular finish for residential and small commercial spaces. It is important to seal microtopping finishes, as they are micro porous and will tend to collect dirt that is difficult to remove once embedded into the material. Check with the manufacturer of the microtopping system you are using as to what sealers (water or solvent or both) are best suited for that particular application.Spray Applied or Stenciled ConcreteFloor coverings are not as popular for interior finishes or coverings, but have been around for decades for exterior coverings for pool decks, and patios. In recent years we have seen these types of finishes become more popular in high traffic interior spaces because of their durability, low cost, ease of application, and range of patterns and colors. They are very similar to Microtopping type finishes in that they are thin, but differ in that they usually contain more sand, and provide a rougher, grittier finish. These types of materials are usually applied through a hopper gun under pressure. A fist scratch or "grout coat" is applied. Once the first coat is dry, adhesive backed stencils are laid out over the floor. A second color or wear coat is spray applied over the stencil, and once dry the stencil is peeled up and discarded. The type of finish (knock down, orange peel, smooth) all depends on the spray pattern and method of spray application. Either a clear or colored sealer is then applied for maintenance and aesthetics.Self-LevelingUnderlayments used as concrete flooring is the newest trend in concrete floor coverings. Self-leveling concrete has been a staple for repair and leveling of damaged or worn concrete. Until recently, another solid surface floor covering would be placed on top of the self-leveling material. In the last few years contractors have started adding integral color to self-leveling systems, or coming back after 24 hours and using stains, dyes or tints to create colorful floors. The advantage of a self-leveling system is that it can correct uneven floors, repair damaged floors, and at the same time provide a very dense smooth and durable concrete floor. Self-leveling concrete can be expensive, and does require a higher level of proficiency than the microtopping and spray texture products. Surface preparation, once again, becomes very critical with self-leveling systems. Most self-levelers can go down 1/4 inch to 1 inch, with the ability to go to a feather edge.

Stain application tipsStaining concrete successfully requires a deft hand and a discerning eye. Here are a few tips for getting the best results:· Be scrupulous with surface preparation to ensure removal of contaminants or defects that could ruin an otherwise beautiful staining job. (See Cleaning Floors Before Concrete Staining.)· Carefully mask off surrounding areas to avoid unintentional staining - acid stains can be tough, and sometimes impossible, to remove.· Always apply a test sample of stain to a small, inconspicuous area of the concrete to be treated. Because so many variables can affect the final color, that's the only way to get an accurate preview of the finished look.· Stain colors will be more intense if you apply the stain soon after the concrete has been placed.· Follow the stain manufacturer's directions. Acid-based chemical stains often have different requirements than acrylic stains for surface preparation, application and cleanup. Manufacturers can also recommend the best application tools and coverage rates for their products.· To produce various concentrations of color, you can dilute the stain by adding water, either by wetting the concrete before the stain is applied or by spritzing the concrete after stain application with water from a spray bottle.· Don't expect color consistency or perfection. Variations are inherent in the staining process.· To treat areas that did not stain well, try applying a concrete dye or tint.· When using an acid-based stain, be sure to remove any residue remaining on the surface so the sealer will bond properly. Use a mixture of water and detergent, adding a tablespoon of baking soda per gallon of water to neutralize any remaining acid. Scrub with a buffing machine, and then pick up the residue with a wet vacuum. Rinse until the water is clear.· Protect your newly stained surface with a sealer. Be sure to select a product that’s compatible with the stain you’re using.

Applying stains to concrete requires multiple steps, which are as follows:Prepare the SurfaceWhether you are staining new or old concrete, thorough surface preparation is essential. Unlike paints and coatings, which are opaque and can mask many evils, acid stains are translucent. Any residue remaining on the surface of the concrete is likely to be visible through the newly applied stain. When done properly, this initial step dramatically impacts the finished appearance of the project. Surface preparation can be done in two ways, either by mechanical grinding or with the use of a specially formulated cleaner (often available from your stain manufacturer). Learn more about surface preparation before staining concrete. Apply the Decorative StainAfter the concrete has been cleaned or ground, it is time to apply the actual stain. Here's how:1. Mask off area to protect door frames, walls, etc.2. Dilute stain with water to desired ratio (see your manufacturer’s recommendations for specifics).3. Spray or brush on first coat. Popular sprayers include airless sprayers, HVLP sprayers, production guns, pump sprayersor even a trigger spray bottle. A brush or sponge may be used for cases that require precise control of the stain application.4. Let the newly applied stain dry. Dry times will vary based on temperature, humidity and air flow. In optimum conditions, the concrete will be dry to the touch in 15-20 minutes; however, the total cure time is 24 hours.5. Repeat if more color intensity is desired. Most stain manufacturers recommend waiting a few hours between applications.Remove ResidueOnce the stain has been applied, cleanup is required. Here is a standard cleanup process:1. Rinse the concrete with clean water until the water runs clear.2. Neutralize the stain with T.S.P., baking soda or ammonia. This is only necessary if you are using an acid stain, water-based stains do not require neutralization.3. Use a soft bristled brush or broom to loosen any stubborn residue before the final rinsing.Add a Protection CoatAfter allowing the stained concrete to dry overnight or longer, apply your sealer of choice. Most stain manufacturers recommend applying two coats of sealer for optimum durability. The type of sealer you use will depend on whether the concrete is indoors or outdoors and what level of gloss is desired (see Concrete Floor Sealers). In addition to the sealer, a floor finish or wax can be applied for extra protection against scuffs and scratches.

By Chris Sullivan - ChemSystems, Inc.To simplify the answer to this question, I'm going to break down concrete stains into two families: reactive and non-reactive. With a reactive stain, a reaction takes place between the stain and concrete, forming a permanent chemical bond. Non-reactive stains are tinted coatings, sealers, or dyes that mechanically, not chemically, bond to the concrete surface. Instead, they fill the pores of the concrete surface or produce a colored film or coating.While reactive stains are available with either an acid base or salt base, acid-based stains have been around the longest and are the measure by which all other stains are gauged. True acid-based stains are made up of inorganic metallic salts dissolved in an acid and water solution. However, Mother Nature limits the color palette for acid stains. That's why most manufacturers offer only eight colors, mostly earth tones. A true reactive acid-based concrete stain is translucent, penetrates into the concrete surface, and leaves no film or coating.Non-reactive stains have grown in popularity over the last few years because they offer a nearly unlimited palette of colors and are easy to apply. The downside is that they lack the deep, rich, translucent color tones only possible with acid stains.While both stain types are viable options for the staining professional, it's important to be aware that each product requires different procedures for surface preparation. Most non-reactive stains require an acid wash to open and prepare the surface to ensure good mechanical adhesion. Surface preparation for a true concrete stain will NEVER recommend an aggressive acid wash to open the surface prior to application. Applying an aggressive acid (such as hydrochloric or muriatic) destroys the cement paste at the surface that allows the acid stain to react and develop its marbled color variations. A hard-troweled concrete surface, rich in cement paste, is the food on which a true acid-based stain thrives.

By Andrew Stevenson Ph.D.  |   Submitted On September 26, 2010    Polished concrete floors are really easy to maintain and look after. It is true that one requires quite some simple strategy of looking after these concrete floors but there are certain facts about maintenance that need to be kept in mind.Experts and individuals who are well clued about concrete polishing recommend that one occasionally dusts the surface to remove any kind of grit and then using a somewhat damp mop to create some kind of enhancement on the floor. There are several companies that deal in polished floors and they sell some accessories like cleaning equipment that will help one to look after their polished concrete floor quite adequately. Many manufacturers of these cleaning items ensure that after cleaning, there is a dirt resistant layer that remains on the polished flooring and this helps to keep the polished concrete flooring as clean as possible. In most cases these items and products that do the cleaning will not need any kind of rebuffing and they can actually be applied with just a simply mop or some kind of auto scrubber, in case one is available.    This simple cleaning technique is bound to keep polished floors vital and attractive for years on end. With time, it might seem apparent that the shine or glitter on the concrete polishing is reducing. This is common in instances where the floor is frequently used and cleaned over and over. The advantage is that when it comes to polished concrete flooring, one can be sure that the original look can be re-instated. In some cases, all that will be required is a simple rebuffing of the flooring with some polishing compound. These polishing compounds are sold in many shops and stores where similar items are sold and one can use them to re-instate the gleam on the polished concrete flooring. There could however be instances where some kind of light re-polishing is recommended by the professionals and this will require that they re-polish the floor with some fine grit abrasive.    Keeping the shine and glamour on the concrete polishing is something that everyone would want to do but the first thing that has to be recognized is that keeping the floor clean is the first step. When some dust collects on the polished floor, it is better to gently clean it off before it can gather to amounts that will require some scrubbing of sorts. This will help to leave the polished concrete floors rather clean and at the same time ensure that the lifespan of the flooring is longer since less force used on the floor simply means a longer duration for the concrete polishing.   The process of polishing concrete floors is quite technical and requires some heavy duty machinery designed for that purpose as well as a technically able person to operate the machine. However, when it comes to cleaning and maintenance, one does not have to be as skilled or professional. All you have to do is be keen on dusting the polished concrete floor frequently.

By Anne Balogh, The Concrete NetworkWhen people are first introduced to the beauty of decorative concrete flooring, they are initially "floored" by its good looks (sorry, the pun was too tempting to pass up). However, once that love-at-first-sight reaction fades, it's often followed by skepticism about the practicality of concrete flooring, especially in a home environment. Many homeowners will ask: Beyond its aesthetic attributes, is concrete really a flooring material I can live with for the long term?Like any flooring material, concrete does have some inherent drawbacks. However, many of them are easy to overcome, and in the end, the positives of concrete flooring far outweigh the negatives. Are decorative concrete floors right for your home or business? To help you decide, here are answers to common questions about concrete floor benefits, appearance, performance, and maintenance. For more information, watch the recommended videos.Are concrete floors prone to cracking?The most common objection to concrete floors is the potential for cracking. However, some people actually love the rustic, organic look that can be achieved by staining the floor and leaving minor random cracks exposed If cracks are perceived as an eyesore, microtoppings offer the ability to hide them under a smooth, new surface that can accept a wide array of decorative treatments, including staining, stamping, and stenciling. Learn more about what you can do with decorative concrete overlays.Are concrete floors cold and damp?Concrete can be cold, but no more so than ceramic tile or natural stone flooring. Plus, it’s possible to warm up concrete floors by taking advantage of concrete’s ability to store and radiate heat. For example, you can embed radiant heating cables in concrete floors to keep them toasty warm in the winter. You can also design your home to maximize the amount of sunlight entering through windows in the winter, allowing concrete floors to absorb and radiate the heatConcrete floors won’t become damp unless they aren't insulated properly or the slab is built on a poorly drained subgrade. In properly constructed newer homes, today's building codes typically require installation of a vapor barrier under concrete slabs to block moisture migration and that feeling of dampnessAre concrete floors loud and hard on the feet?Concrete is a hard material, so it won't cushion or "give" under bare feet. But concrete's hardness is also what contributes to its durability and abrasion resistance. In a commercial or warehouse setting, hard is good. You need a hard surface that can stand up to forklift traffic and heavy foot traffic. For a residential floor, you can help cushion concrete with area rugs, which are easier to clean than wall-to-wall carpet. While concrete may be hard, it's not abrasive to the feet, especially if it's polished or has a smooth finish.Concrete floors can be loud and produce an echo effect, but no more so than ceramic tile, natural stone flooring, and some hardwood or bamboo floors. You can muffle the echo effect by using sound-absorptive materials in the room, such as area rugs, curtains, pillows and wall fabrics.Are decorative concrete floors expensive?When compared with high-end floor coverings, such as ceramic tile, slate and marble, decorative concrete is often an economical alternative. Plus, skilled concrete artisans can duplicate the look of these pricier materials. The life expectancy of a concrete floor will also far surpass that of low- to mid-priced floor coverings, such as carpeting, vinyl tile and wood laminates. That means in the long run you can save money because you'll never need to rip out and replace worn or damaged flooring.

By Anne Balogh, ConcreteNetwork.com columnist1) They resist pet stains and odors.When the pores in concrete are sealed with a protective film-forming sealer or floor finish, pet urine can't seep into the floor and leave behind lingering odors and stains. While we always recommend sealing concrete floors, if your concrete is unsealed and urine stains happen to occur, there are products you can use to remove them that work well on concrete, such as Urine Off from Bio-Pro Research.2) They are easy to clean.When your pets shed fur or race through your home with rain-soaked or muddy paws, cleaning up after them is no sweat if your floors are concrete. Just give the floor a few swipes with a broom, towel or mop, and the mess is history.3) They won't trap pet dander, fleas or mites.In addition to fur, pets shed animal dander (flakes of skin) that can aggravate allergies in people who are sensitive. Smooth floor surfaces like concrete won't trap this dander the way carpet will, making the dander easy to remove during routine cleaning. Concrete floors also won't harbor fleas or mites that your pet may carry into the home.4) They are nontoxic.Synthetic carpets can emit volatile organic compounds, or VOCs, as can some of the products that accompany carpet installation such as adhesives and padding. Some of the adhesives used under vinyl sheet goods and linoleum can also emit VOCs. Concrete floors, stained with nontoxic pigments, do not release VOCs that can be harmful to you as well as your pets.5) They are scratch resistant.Playful, rambunctious pets and their claws can really scratch up hardwood flooring. Concrete floors are inherently scratch resistant, and when protected with a good sealer or floor wax, they are virtually scratchproof.6) You can heat them.Because hot air rises, many homes tend to be colder at floor level. And since that's where your pets spend most of their time eating, sleeping and playing, the ability to warm up concrete floors with radiant heating will keep your pets comfortable while saving big money on your energy bills. And money saved is money you can now use to pamper your pets in style!

By Jennifer Fitzjarrell, The Concrete NetworkMaking your garage an extension of your living space In a time not too long ago, garages were all the same: outbuildings that were storage areas for parked cars, with boring gray concrete or even dirt floors. Today garages have taken a more prominent place in the design of homes, often built to house three vehicles, and more often than not attached to the home. Garages have graduated from simple storage areas, becoming organized shops or showrooms. Today every bit of attention that a homeowner pays to the decorating of the home is paid to the garage as well, right down to what goes on the concrete floors.The growing trend to customize residential garages seems to have generated in the Southwest, where mild weather encouraged people to spend time in their garages. With the addition of evaporative coolers and special heating systems, garages became useable in all corners of the U.S., in all kinds of weather. As garages became extensions of living spaces, the organizational needs for the garages evolved as well. One of the first steps in customizing garages, the addition of custom cabinets, may have led to the popularity of garage floor coatings. "An unlikely friend to the garage floor is custom garage cabinets," says Kirk Stokes at Key Resin West in Phoenix. "With people getting more organized and wanting cleaner and better looking garages, it's only natural that they would want to upgrade the look of the floor as well."Now homeowners no longer have to settle for boring, gray concrete flooring. Their garage floors can be as aesthetically pleasing as the rest of their home.

The versatility of garage floor coatingsGarage floor coverings have the versatility to go with any style of décor. Looks can range from simple gray concrete with a sealer to a more complex colored base with multicolor flecks in it, offering a design similar to granite or terrazzo.Color flakes come in a wide range of colors and are made of acrylic paint chips. This system provides an excellent wear surface that can stand up under walking and driving on, but if impact resistance is what you're looking for, decorative quartz is the way to go. Quartz floors are multicolored aggregates thrown to refusal into 100% solids epoxy and have the impact resistance not normally found with the acrylic paint chips.Choosing the design for your garage floor covering can be as simple as matching the color of your house or as involved as hiding any imperfections or flaws in the existing floor. Coating the existing concrete with only a sealer, any imperfections will show through. A colored base with the paint chips or quartz aggregate thrown down to refusal would cover any imperfections that may exist. If the floor has no aesthetic reasons to choose full coverage, a medium or light paint chip coverage may be chosen for additional design variations.

Almost any structurally sound concrete floor, whether new or old, can be polished. But there are some exceptions.For new floors, no special mix design is required to achieve good results. However, the floor should be in place at least 28 days before polishing begins to ensure adequate curing. Some retail and warehouse facilities that plan to polish their floors after placement may specify the installation of as smooth a floor as possible to minimize the polishing steps required.Existing floors typically require some surface preparation prior to polishing to remove dirt, grease, coatings, or blemishes. However, floors that are wavy, need extensive patching, or are extremely porous may not be good candidates for polishing. An experienced contractor can usually determine a floor's suitability.To help solidify and densify polished concrete surfaces, some contractors apply penetrating hardeners to the concrete, normally after the first step of the grinding process. These products, which can be applied to new or existing floors, work by reacting chemically with the concrete to form a hard, crystalline structure. They also prevent dusting of concrete and offer extra protection from water penetration and staining. 

Posted on 4/10/2015 by Brian Meeker in Garage FlooringWhat are Epoxy Coatings? Epoxy is the cured end product of epoxy resins, as well as a colloquial name for the polyepoxide functional group. Epoxy is also a common name for a type of strong adhesive used for sticking things together and covering surfaces, typically two resins that need to be mixed together before use.Epoxy resins, also known as are a class of reactive prepolymers andpolymers which contain epoxide groups. Epoxy resins may be reacted (cross-linked)either with themselves through catalytic homopolymerisation, or with a wide range ofco-reactants including polyfunctional amines, acids (and acid anhydrides), phenols,alcohols, and thiols. These co-reactants are often referred to as hardeners or curatives,and the cross-linking reaction is commonly referred to as curing. Reaction ofpolyepoxides with themselves or with polyfunctional hardeners forms a thermosettingpolymer, often with strong mechanical properties as well as high temperature andchemical resistance. Epoxy has a wide range of industrial applications, including metalcoatings, use in electronic and electrical components, high tension electricalinsulators, and structural adhesives as well as floor coatings.We use a two-part epoxy 100% solids industrial grade epoxy for garage floorschip/base coat. This product has superior adhesion due to its proprietary wickingtechnology. It also allows for high MVE (Moisture Vapor Emissions) to be held back through the slab, up to 15 lbs. Sq. In.Polyaspartics used as a chip/base coat do not allow for high MVE and will fail above3 lbs. Sq. In. In which case an epoxy primer vapor barrier coat will be required prior tothe installation of the Polyaspartic.This is why we use our two-part epoxy as the chip/base coat due to its superioradhesion and ability to lock down high MVE and then the highly durable and flexiblePolyaspartic as our clear protective top coat. Translating into a superior garage floor coating finish. 

Garages are extremely versatile spaces use for storing cars and working on automobiles. They are susceptible to large amounts of fluids, oils, soils, chemicals and abrasions. In order to protect your garage from all of these disastrous situations an industrial strength coatings should be applied to your garage floor.Garage floor systems commonly consist of epoxy base coats and urethane top coats. The combination of the two coatings make the finished surface practically indestructible. In order for a garage floor coating to offer indefinite protection you need to make sure you properly prepare the surface. By using a floor grinder to scarify and etch the surface of the concrete you are exfoliating the slab and opening up all of the pores. By creating this rough surface porosity you are giving the coatings a surface to properly adhere to.After the surface has been prepared you are then ready to apply the first part, the epoxy. Look for a cycloaliphatic epoxy that offers excellent chemical resistance properties. The downside to epoxies is their extremely long cure time of up to a week in some cases. After the epoxy is applied and fully cure you can apply a urethane top coat.  Look for an aliphatic urethane that will provide excellent resistance to acids, oil, gasoline and other automobile fluids; also look make sure it is hot tire pickup resistant.

By Clark Branum, L.M. ScofieldTheme ParkL.M. Scofield Company in Douglasville, GAInstead of traditional masonry pavers for flatwork and pedestrian areas, more theme parks are using stamped concrete because of reduced long-term maintenance and care. Over time, pavers often become loose or they settle, resulting in tripping hazards. Replacing existing pavers with new ones can create undesirable aesthetics because the colors rarely match.The decorative concrete advantage:No more loose or settled pavers that require resetting or replacement.The elimination of tripping hazards that increase liability for parks and resorts.Stamped concrete is safe, easy to maintain, and has a long service life.Interior flooringBecker Architectural Concrete in Woodbury, MNMore big-box retailers are choosing decorative concrete as a finished floor as opposed to high-maintenance floor coverings or coverings that can fail due to moisture exposure. Many smaller retailers find that stained concrete floors are not only attractive but also very cost effective. Polished concrete is another popular choice for interior floors, especially in educational and medical facilities, because they create an attractive, light-reflective, easy-to-maintain durable surface.The decorative concrete advantage:Cost savings by eliminating traditional floor coverings and using the slab on grade as the finished floor.Reduced maintenance and longer service life.Better resistance to moisture and heavy foot traffic.Good light reflectivity.Concrete Treatments Inc in Plymouth, MNGreen BuildingAnother area where decorative concrete has proven to be a value to builders and developers is in the implementation of sustainable building practices. Traditional floor coverings often require adhesives that emit VOCs into the atmosphere over time, reducing the indoor air quality. Green building with concrete can contribute to sustainability in other areas as well by providing thermal mass and improving light reflectivity. Light-colored concrete pavements have also been proven to reduce the urban heat island effect by improving solar-reflectivity valuesThe decorative concrete advantage:

Polished concrete is fast becoming the ultimate no-wax flooring material. Thanks to recent advances in polishing equipment and techniques, contractors are now grinding concrete floor surfaces, whether new or old, to a high-gloss finish that never needs waxes or coatings. Factor in the superior durability and performance of concrete, and it's no wonder why more retail, warehouse, and office facilities are opting for polished concrete flooring as an alternative to marble, granite, tile, linoleum, or coated concrete. Even homeowners are catching on to the appeal of these smooth, high-luster floors, which can be stained to replicate the look of polished stone.Because polishing is a multistep process, you can choose the level of sheen -- from satin to high-gloss -- that meets your maintenance and aesthetic requirements. This versatility makes polished concrete an ideal flooring material for a variety of applications.This section offers a complete overview of polished concrete floors, including benefits, design options, equipment requirements and maintenance needs.You'll learn the basic steps in the polishing process, the differences between wet and dry polishing, and the advantages of polished concrete compared with other flooring materials including carpeting, wood, ceramic tile, natural stone, and vinyl tile. You'll also find the average costs of polished concrete and what factors affect the final price of installing polished concrete floors.You'll learn how to prepare concrete surfaces before polishing to ensure good results, as well as why some concrete floors may not be good candidates for polishing. Also discover the difference between the various levels of shine possible with polished concrete, ranging from low gloss to reflective mirror-like finishes.Plus get popular design options for polished concrete, including coloring with stains and dyes, decorative engraving, and stenciled graphics. Find ideas for achieving interesting decorative effects by applying multiple colors of dye and using faux-finishing techniques.Finally, you'll find instructions for cleaning and maintaining polished concrete, how to improve the slip-resistance of polished concrete floors and the environmentally friendly attributes of polished concrete.Be aware that the process of polishing concrete floors requires a great deal of expertise and the use of specialized heavy-duty polishing machines equipped with diamond-impregnated disks that gradually grind down surfaces to the desired degree of shine and smoothness. Considering the investment in equipment and the skill required, it's definitely not a project for the do-it-yourselfer. You'll want to hire a professional concrete polishing contractor to do the work.Factor in the superior durability and performance of concrete, and it's no wonder why more retail, warehouse, and office facilities are opting for polished concrete flooring as an alternative to marble, granite, tile, linoleum, or coated concrete. Even homeowners are catching on to the appeal of these smooth, high-luster floors, which can be stained to replicate the look of polished stone. 

Grinding and polishing concrete has become one of the commercial concrete surface applications of choice for many architects and builders in Middle Tennessee due to the durability and low maintenance requirements of polished concrete. A grind and polished concrete surface has the highest impact resistance of any concrete finish because the surface has minimal sealer application.For new construction, we will work directly with the builder to install concrete that is perfectly suited for grind and polishing. Artistic Polymers is able to work with the existing concrete floors in good condition to achieve the best possible grind and polished surface.Artistic Polymers has installed hundreds of grind and polished garage floors in Nashville and throughout Middle Tennessee. No one is better equipped to handle your customized project.

Epoxy floors are stronger, more durable, more resilient and chemically more resistant than conventional flooring systems. They will stand up to traffic for longer periods than concrete, wooden or tile subsurfaces.The cleaner the floor is kept, the longer it will last.If not removed regularly, fine particles of dust, dirt, debris etc., act as abrasives with traffic.It is particularly important to keep clean the epoxy floors in pharmaceutical, cosmetic and food industries.The selection of correct cleaning compounds and cleaning techniques are equally important factors of effective cleaning.HOW TO CLEANING EPOXY FLOOR:Using hand or mechanical scrubbing units; high-pressure water or steam equipment or mopping will usualy give very clean epoxy floors.Epoxy floors are non-porous. They are relatively easy to clean because contaminants cannot penetrate the surface, they stay on top.Epoxy floors will not be affected by most cleaning compounds if they are used properly and the floors rinsed thoroughly afterwards. However, as some cleaners contain chemicals which may be aggressive against low quality epoxy floors, e.g. water-based epoxy floors, (if cleaners are left on them for a longer period of time). It is advisable to perform a small cleaning test in an inconspicuous area prior to the general use of any cleaning product.Using soft bristle scrub brushes, (either hand types or mechanical types) with appropriate cleaning compounds will be the best cleaning techniques.After the surface has been scrubbed properly, particular attention must be paid to removing the resultant emulsion of the cleaning solution and soil. This is best achieved by thoroughly rinsing the surface with clean water and vacuuming it, or using a squeegee to remove the floor drains. It is recomended to do a second rinsing with clean water to minimize the possibility of leaving any residue.